Faceted sweatshirt

http://www.dezeen.com/2014/01/28/sweatshirt-by-the-t-shirt-issue-appears-to-melt/

Mashallah Design & Linda Kostowski

 From http://www.dezeen.com/2008/09/29/the-t-shirt-issue-by-mashallah-design-linda-kostowski/


By Mashallah Design & Linda Kostowski
Three people are portrayed digitally by scanning their bodies. The output of this scan is a 3d file, which resolution is defiend by the amount of polygons, similiar to pixels in a bitmap graphic.

Linked with their biographical memories a digital twin of the body is thus created, which expands and personifies the garment in a formal-poetic way. Above: Swimmies

The 3d data is turned into 2d sewing patterns by the use of the unfolding function which is a common tool in industrial design process to make paper models with, the single fabric pieces and the inner interface which defines the edges are cut out by the help of a laser cutter.

Making a clothes pattern in this way changes the aesthetics of the garment fundamentally, because in contrary to ordinary pattern construction methods unfolding does not matter about orientations like center front or the shape of a armhole, which frees the designers imagination in a way that feels fresh and liberate.

As fabric we used sweatshirt jersey as a reference to the common cliche that Berlin is the city which fashionable output lies
in making and painting on t-shirts.

Jule Waibel's folded paper clothes

Tutorial 4

This tutorial builds on tutorial 2, and will show you how to apply a pattern to a 3D surface and create an object based on the 2D pattern. Remember if you can’t find the tool icon, you can write it in the command line.

1. 2. In Rhino use the drawing curve in the front view.

3. 4. Copy and move the curve.

5. 6. Scale the copy curve down

7. 8. Loft the two curves

9.10 Select and move the curves and surface away from 0,0,0 point

11. Unroll the surface.

12. 13. Duplicate Border of the unrolled surface.

14. 15. 16. Rename the layers- see the image for names and colors

17. Open Grasshopper, and open the tutorial 2 grasshopper file. Right click on the R of the populate 2D battery and make a rectangle over the unrolled surface. Right click on the B of the voronoi battery and make a rectangle the same as the populate 2D battery. Right click on the curve battery, and select the duplicate border of the unrolled surface.

18. Create a Map to Surface battery.

19. Create two new surface batteries.

20. 21. 22. 23. Right click on a surface battery and set one surface as the unrolled surface. Right click on the other battery on set one surface as the 3D surface. Plug the first surface battery with the unrolled surface in to the S of the map to surface battery. Plug the surface with the 3D surface in to the T of the map to surface battery. Now plug the R into the C of the map to surface battery. Move whatever parameters you used to create your 2D pattern and see the 3D curves move)

24. 25. Bake the Map to Surface battery on the 3D curve layer (you should have made and renamed layer in step 14,15,16- if you didn’t do it now).

26. 27. Select all of the batteries in the grasshopper window and turn the preview off. Minimize the grasshopper window.

28. Select the Split tool, and select the 3D surface as the object to split.

29. Select the 3D curves as the cutting objects. Wait

30. 31 Select the pattern you’ve cut out of the surface and put it on the 3D object layer.

32. Turn off all the other layers by clicking the light bulbs by their color boxes.

33. Select the 3D object and select the offset surface tool.

34. The offset distance should be .5” and the solid=yes

35. Now try to do this with a surface you’ve captured in 123D catch.

Reverberating Across the Divide

Tutorial 3

1. In Grasshopper goto the Vector Tab, and select Grids, and chose any of the grids.

2., 3. 4. Select a Number Slider, change the type to integers and values to 0 to 100.

5. Add, the sliders to the EX and EY of the Grid battery. Create a new slider and change its value to 0.00 to 10.00. Add it to the S of the Grid battery. Mach the numbers on sliders to what is shown on the tutorial images.

6. Select offset curve

7. Add a new number slider and change its values to -1.00 to 1.00.

8. Plug the C from the Grid into the C on the offset battery. Add the slider to the D (Distance).

9 Type in “distance” and select the Distance tool.

10. In Rhino select your single point tool, and draw a single point next to your grid.

11., 12., 13. In Grasshopper add a point battery, and right click on the point battery, select one point. Add the point that you just drew.  Plug the P from the grid battery into the A on the Distance battery. Plug the point into the B of the distance battery

14., 15,16 Go to the Prams tab, under Input select a Panel. Plug the Distance battery into the panel and look at the number output.  The number output needs to stay below between -.90 and -.10, so you will need to divide the distance output by a negative number.

17,18.,19. Go to the Maths tab, and under operators select  Divide.  Add the output of the distance battery into the A of the divide battery. And create a new number slider , the type is a integer  and value is -100 to 0.

20. Adjust the number slider so that the numbers in the panel are between -.9 and -.1. Plug it in to the offset.

21. Select all the batteries except offset, and turn the preview off.

22. In rhino select and drag the point around to see the pattern change. You may need to adjust the number slider in the divide battery to keep the integrity of the offset polygons.